The Ultimate Bernina Express Route: Tirano to St. Moritz
If your perfect getaway involves tasty mountain cheese-covered dishes, boutique alpine hotels, and breathtaking views of vineyards, glaciers, and lakes, then the Bernina Express Route is the ultimate four-day weekend escape.
While many travelers rush through it as a day trip from Milan, I’ve always believed that affordable luxury travel is about slowing down—leaving time to taste the food, absorb the culture, and savor the rhythm of the journey itself.
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A Brief History of the Bernina Express Route
The Bernina Express Route isn’t just one of Europe’s most scenic train rides—it’s a century-old feat of Alpine engineering that has become part of Switzerland’s national identity. Opened in 1910 by the Rhaetian Railway (RhB), the line was built to connect Tirano in Italy with St. Moritz in Switzerland, climbing more than 1,800 meters without the help of cogwheels.
What makes it extraordinary is how gracefully it conquers the Alps: elegant stone viaducts, looping curves, and gentle gradients that allow the train to glide from vineyards to glaciers in just a few hours. In 2008, UNESCO recognized the Albula and Bernina Railway Lines as a World Heritage Site, praising them as masterpieces of design that harmonize with their natural surroundings.
The trains themselves evolved from modest regional carriages to today’s iconic red Bernina Express, whose panoramic windows showcase the route’s drama—from the Brusio Spiral Viaduct to Lago Bianco and the icy peaks of Piz Bernina. Yet even after a century, the rhythm of the journey remains timeless: slow enough to savor every view, modern enough to remind you that great travel design never ages.
A Bernina Express Itinerary
My Bernina Express Route adventure began with a late Thursday morning departure from Milan—a cultural travel weekend I’d been dreaming about for years. I wanted to experience the UNESCO-listed Bernina Express train, taste the mountain flavors of Italy’s Valtellina Valley, and end the trip with an authentic local celebration—the Morbegno in Cantina fall festival.
Stretching it into a four-day weekend gave me time to relax and enjoy the journey properly, with overnight stays in both Switzerland and northern Italy. It was the perfect blend of heritage, food, and alpine scenery—and it enabled me to do the Bernina Express Route twice. I loved this train ride so much, I appreciated being able to see it moving in both directions.
Here’s how my four days along the Bernina Express Route unfolded—from alpine elegance to valley wines.
Day 1 – Thursday: From Milan to Tirano and the Start of the Bernina Express Route
I began my long weekend with a late-morning regional train to Tirano, Italy—a scenic 2½-hour ride that traces the shimmering edges of Lake Como, passing through postcard-perfect towns like Varenna, famous for its lakeside promenades and spritz-by-the-water aperitivo spots.
From there, the route winds into the Valtellina Valley, a region celebrated for its terraced vineyards, mountain cheeses, and rich, buttery pizzocheri. It’s an easy and spectacular trip that feels like a prelude to the Bernina Express Route itself, with each passing village hinting at what’s to come—mountains rising higher, stone houses nestled tighter, and that crisp Alpine air that subtly shifts the light.
By early afternoon, I arrived in Tirano, grabbed a light lunch near the station, and made my way to the platform where the Bernina Express Route begins. There was heavy construction around the train station and nothing that I felt like I needed to see in this town, so it was a quick transfer spot.
The Bernina Express train is unique even before it leaves town—it runs like a tram right through Tirano’s streets, passing the ornate Santuario della Madonna di Tirano before heading uphill toward the border.
💡 Insider Tip: If you’re traveling in fair weather, consider taking the regional train instead of the official panoramic Bernina Express. When I went in early October, it was nearly 70°F—perfect for opening the windows halfway down and feeling the alpine air rush in. The regional trains are structured with three newer cars at the front (only one out of every three windows opens), followed by older carriages where every window slides down. Those older cars might look less polished, but they’re far more flexible for photography.
I’ve never experienced anything quite like it—leaning out for photos, the wind in my hair, sometimes close enough to brush the walls of passing houses or the branches of trees. It made the Bernina Express Route feel alive, not just observed through glass. The 2nd class ticket cost about 30 CHF, with no seat reservations required, and since it was the off-season, I had plenty of space to move between windows for the perfect shot.
Brusio Spiral Viaduct
Not long after leaving Tirano, the Bernina Express Route reveals one of its most extraordinary features: the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. Completed in 1908, this elegant loop of nine stone arches was designed to help the train gain altitude without needing a cogwheel system. Instead of switching back or tunneling upward, the line gracefully circles over itself—a perfect spiral that climbs more than 20 meters in just a few hundred.
It’s one of those moments that feels almost surreal. As the train curls around, you can actually see the carriages looping below and above you—bright red against the green valley, a living, moving circle of engineering genius. It’s also one of the most photographed sections of the Bernina Express Switzerland railway, and for good reason: every passenger instinctively leans out a window, camera ready, trying to capture the entire train in one frame.
Stop: Miralago — A Still Moment Beside the Lake
After climbing past vineyards and stone cottages, the Bernina Express Route glides into Miralago, a quiet lakeside stop that often surprises travelers with its serenity. The station sits beside Lake Miralago, a small alpine lake that marks the border between Italy and Switzerland. Its surface mirrors the surrounding peaks so perfectly that on calm days, it’s hard to tell where the mountains end and the water begins.
For those who hop off here, there’s a short lakeside path and a handful of benches where you can sit and watch the reflections ripple in the breeze. Even if you stay on the train, this is one of those stretches that feels cinematic—the train hugging the water’s edge as it curves north, with the first rooftops of Poschiavo town appearing in the distance.
Stop: Poschiavo — Where Italian Charm Meets Swiss Precision
Roughly 45 minutes after departing Tirano, the train pulls into Poschiavo, a colorful town that feels like the cultural heart of the lower Engadin. Nestled in a sun-drenched valley, Poschiavo is part of Switzerland’s Italian-speaking canton of Graubünden, and it’s one of the most common hop-off points on the Bernina Express Route—especially for travelers short on time who want to experience just the southern stretch of the line.
Dating back to the Middle Ages, Poschiavo flourished in the 19th century when locals known as Poschiavini made their fortunes abroad as pastry chefs and hotel owners, returning home to build elegant Renaissance-style villas that still line the main street today. The town blends Italian warmth with Swiss order: pastel façades, wrought-iron balconies, and a slow rhythm of life that seems immune to the outside world.
As the Bernina Express Route begins to climb, the windows frame views of the tiny Swiss hamlet of Poschiavo below, and then, higher still, the rooftops of Poschiavo town itself come into view with Lake Miralago shimmering in the distance. It’s one of those stretches where I found myself darting from one side of the train to the other, camera in hand.
Stop: Cavaglia — Hiking Trails and the Glacier Garden
Perched high above Poschiavo, the Cavaglia stop is one of the most rewarding yet often overlooked along the Bernina Express Route. The small station, set against a backdrop of pine forests and glacier-fed streams, feels wonderfully remote—and it’s the gateway to some of the region’s best light hikes.
Just a few minutes’ walk from the station lies the Glacier Garden of Cavaglia (Giardino dei Ghiacciai di Cavaglia), a fascinating natural site sculpted over millennia by retreating glaciers. Dozens of smooth, cylindrical potholes—known as “giant’s pots”—have been carved into the rock by the swirling action of meltwater and ice. The garden is open from May 1 to October 31, and entry is free, though there are also guided visits available on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays at 14:00, lasting 90 to 120 minutes and starting directly from the Cavaglia railway station (CHF 10 for adults).
For those who want to linger, the tiny Hotel Ristorante Cavaglia, housed in the former railway station, offers one of the most atmospheric stays along the line—simple alpine rooms, hearty local food, and the rare pleasure of waking up to the sound of a train trundeling by. Whether you pause for a short walk or spend the night, Cavaglia is where the Bernina Express Switzerland journey slows down enough for you to feel part of the landscape itself.
Stop: Alp Grüm — Lunch With a Glacier View
Perched at 2,091 meters, Alp Grüm feels like the point where the Bernina Express Route reaches the sky. The station sits on a natural terrace facing the Palü Glacier and Lago Palü below, offering one of the most dramatic viewpoints in the Alps. It’s a place that seems purpose-built for travelers to pause—and, historically, it was.
The original Alp Grüm railway station was completed in 1910 as part of the Bernina Railway’s daring mountain route, and in 1923 a stone station building with a restaurant and guest rooms was added to serve early alpine tourists. The structure still stands today, its pale façade and wooden balconies blending into the cliffs. Inside, the Ristorante Alp Grüm retains its 1920s charm with wide windows framing the glacier—one of the most scenic dining rooms in Switzerland.
The official Bernina Express schedule includes a short stop here, usually around ten to fifteen minutes—just enough time to step off the train, breathe in the thin air, and capture that quintessential glacier-view photo. If you’re traveling on a regional train, though, the experience is even better: with no seat reservations or fixed schedules, you can hop off, enjoy lunch on the terrace, and reboard a later train.
As the train began to curve away, I caught sight of the station sign and couldn’t help wondering about the name—Grüm sounded like it should mean green in German, and the slopes beyond were indeed blanketed in thick moss that shimmered emerald in the late-afternoon light.
It doesn’t mean green and linguists haven’t pinned down a definitive meaning; it may stem from an old Romansh or local dialect word whose origin has faded with time. But the impression felt right—lush, alive, and deeply connected to the landscape that surrounds it.
Stop: Ospizio Bernina — The Roof of the Bernina Express Route
At 2,253 meters, Ospizio Bernina marks the highest point of the Bernina Express Route, and when I reached it, it truly felt like arriving to the roof of the world. After the winding ascent from Alp Grüm, the track levels out into an unexpected plateau — broad, windswept, and strikingly flat, with jagged Alpine peaks rising in the distance like a crown of stone.
Beside the station lies Lago Bianco, whose milky hue comes from glacial meltwater rich in rock flour. Its pale surface glows almost white against the darker slopes, creating an ethereal contrast that changes with the light. This lake sits precisely on the continental divide — its waters split in two directions, some eventually flowing south toward the Adriatic Sea, others north toward the Black Sea. Nearby, the darker Lago Nero rests below the divide, a mirror-still basin that adds shadow and depth to the scene.
A few hikers were tracing the path around Lago Bianco when I arrived, their silhouettes small against the wide horizon. The air felt thin and startlingly pure; the stillness almost rang in my ears. It’s a place that doesn’t demand activity — it invites reflection.
🏞️ Tip: The official Bernina Express usually pauses here for a few minutes — just enough time to step outside, snap a photo, and breathe in the high-alpine air. Travelers on the regional trains can linger longer, following the lakeside trail or stopping at the small Hospice Bernina, which has offered shelter to passers-by since the 19th century.
Stop: Diavolezza — The Devil’s Mountain and Gateway to the Glaciers
Just a few minutes north of Ospizio Bernina lies Diavolezza, one of the most dramatic and storied stops along the Bernina Express Route. The name means “She-Devil” in Italian — a nod to a local legend about a mountain spirit so beautiful she lured hunters into the glaciers, never to return. Standing on the platform, surrounded by snowfields and craggy peaks, it’s easy to see how the myth was born. The landscape feels both seductive and untamed, its beauty edged with danger.
From the station, a cable car climbs to the Diavolezza summit at nearly 3,000 meters, offering sweeping views of the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers and Piz Bernina, the highest mountain in the Eastern Alps (4,049 meters). On clear days, it’s a spectacle of pure white ridgelines under an impossibly blue sky.
🚠 Tip: If you’re traveling on a regional train, consider hopping off here for an hour or two. The upper station has a panoramic restaurant, an outdoor terrace, and even a small hot tub overlooking the glacier — one of the most surreal spa settings in Switzerland. You can linger for lunch or hike the Glacier Trail before catching the next train toward Pontresina.
🕒 Cable Car Info: The Diavolezza cable car runs year-round, with seasonal schedules that vary depending on snow conditions. You can find current operating times and weather updates on the official Diavolezza website.
Whether you come for the legend, the view, or just the thrill of standing near the Alps’ glacial heart, Diavolezza perfectly captures the wild, high-altitude allure of the Bernina Express Switzerland journey.
Stop: Morteratsch — Following the Glacier’s Long Goodbye
As the Bernina Express Route begins its descent toward Pontresina, the track twists through a series of wide curves that seem to wrap around the Morteratsch Glacier itself. From the window, the train feels as if it’s corkscrewing through a natural amphitheater of ice and stone—each turn revealing a slightly different angle of the glacier, its brilliant white surface laced with silver veins of meltwater. It’s one of the most photogenic sections of the entire journey.
The Morteratsch Glacier is the largest in the Bernina Range and has long been a symbol of both Alpine majesty and fragility. Over the past century, it has retreated more than two kilometers; along the Glacier Trail leading from Morteratsch station, small wooden signs mark the glacier’s former reach year by year—a sobering timeline etched into the valley floor.
For travelers on regional trains, this stop is a wonderful chance to step off and explore. The walk from the station to the glacier’s snout takes about 50 minutes on a gentle gravel path through forest and meadow, accompanied by the constant hum of meltwater streams. At the start of the trail, there’s a small café and a viewing area with interpretive panels that explain the glacier’s geology and ongoing research.
❄️ Tip: If you’re staying overnight in Pontresina, one of the easiest ways to enjoy the Morteratsch hike is to drop your suitcase at your hotel first, then return on a later regional train. The ride from Surovas in Pontresina to Morteratsch takes only about five minutes, making it an easy round trip for an afternoon walk. This way, you can experience the glacier trail without the rush or the weight of luggage—an effortless, slow-travel addition to your Bernina Express Switzerland itinerary.
Stop: Pontresina — Alpine Elegance Meets Cozy Luxury
By late afternoon on Day 1 I arrived in Pontresina, a high-alpine village where history, architecture, and mountain rhythm converge into something uniquely serene. Nestled at about 1,805 m, Pontresina is framed by glacier peaks and larch forests, but it doesn’t feel raw or rugged—it feels intentionally crafted for travelers who want beauty and comfort.
Long before the Bernina Express arrived, Pontresina began as a modest mountain stopover. In the 19th century, visitors seeking fresh air and alpine cures transformed it into a refined resort, and many of its Belle Époque façades and grand hotels still carry that legacy.
I checked into the Hotel Walther, an elegant Relais & Châteaux property with georgeous design decor, soft lighting, thoughtful art, and a lobby that slows you down just by stepping inside. (If you want all the details on the hotel’s design, the town’s hidden corners, and recommended restaurants, check out my full Pontresina guide: Cozy Luxury Reigns in Pontresina.)
In Pontresina, you can wander sgraffito-decorated houses, stop into cafés that feel more like living rooms, or stroll past old horse stables converted to art galleries and boutiques. It’s the perfect counterpoint to the high-altitude wilderness you’ve just traveled through—light, calm, refined, and quietly grand.
Day 2 – Friday: Morning in the Engadin
After a restful night at the Hotel Walther, I woke to the kind of crisp, blue-sky morning that makes you want to linger over breakfast just to watch the light change on the mountains. The air in Pontresina felt softer, scented faintly with pine and fresh bread from the nearby bakery.
Day 2 of my Bernina Express Route weekend was all about balance—slow luxury in the morning, a taste of Swiss glamour by midday, and a return to Italy’s warmth by evening.
Stop: St. Moritz — A Morning of Alpine Glamour
The next morning, I took the short bus ride from Pontresina to St. Moritz, one of the most iconic names in Switzerland travel. The journey takes barely fifteen minutes but feels like a passage into another world—where mirrored lakes, designer boutiques, and polished cafés meet pure mountain air.
I spent the morning walking along the lakefront promenade, admiring how the crisp light turned every reflection into silver, and stopping for lunch with a view of the peaks that have drawn travelers here for more than a century. St. Moritz may be synonymous with luxury, but it also has a creative side—art galleries tucked behind grand façades and contemporary restaurants that reinterpret mountain cuisine with surprising elegance.
(Stay tuned for my upcoming post on St. Moritz, Switzerland, where I’ll share where to eat, sip, and find the most photogenic viewpoints.)
By early afternoon, it was time to board the Bernina Express train once again—this time heading south for the return journey toward Tirano.
Afternoon Departure: Boarding the Bernina Express from St. Moritz
After lunch, I made my way back to the station and boarded the Bernina Express train bound for Tirano—this time with a small insider trick. Instead of booking a seat in the panoramic cars, I sat in one of the first three carriages, which don’t require the additional reservation fee. These cars still offer the same spectacular views, and every third window opens halfway—ideal for catching the mountain breeze or snapping photos without the glare of glass.
If you have to choose a side, I’d recommend sitting on the right-hand side of the train. The views of the glaciers, mountain lakes, and winding valleys are even more dramatic on the return journey south, with the light hitting the peaks just so. It’s a simple switch that turns a scenic ride into a full sensory experience—the kind of quiet luxury that doesn’t cost extra but feels utterly priceless.
Stop in Poschiavo — A Perfect Mid-Journey Pause
On the way back toward Tirano, I decided to stop in Poschiavo, that sun-kissed valley town I’d admired on the climb north the day before. One of the best perks of traveling on the regional trains rather than the official panoramic service is flexibility—there are trains usually every hour, so it’s easy to check the schedule, hop off for a while, and rejoin later. It’s the perfect way to turn the Bernina Express Route into a choose-your-own-adventure kind of day.
Back in Poschiavo, I spent a couple of unhurried hours wandering through the arcaded main square, sitting in a café with a cappuccino, and watching locals pedal by on vintage bicycles. The pace of life here feels gentle, suspended between Swiss order and Italian ease—a combination that makes it very hard to leave.
Return to Tirano — Crossing Between Worlds
Arriving back in Tirano feels a little like stepping between two worlds. The train glides down from the Alps into this sun-drenched valley town, and in just a few steps, you pass from Switzerland back into Italy. What makes it even more curious is how close the two stations sit: the Swiss Bernina Express terminal and the Italian regional train station are separated by only about forty feet, divided by a small dogana (customs post) that marks the shift between languages, signage, and pace.
Walking that short stretch feels quietly cinematic—one of those travel moments that remind you how fluid borders can be in Europe. One minute you’re surrounded by orderly Swiss timetables and red RhB carriages, the next you’re hearing Italian voices and the clatter of espresso cups from the café beside the Trenord platform.
From there, I caught the regional train to Sondrio, settling back into the rhythm of the Valtellina Valley—a landscape of terraces, vineyards, and stone villages glowing in the late-day light.
Evening Arrival in Sondrio — A Pizzocheri Mission Begins
By early evening, I arrived in Sondrio, the heart of Italy’s Valtellina Valley, after a quick 30-minute regional train ride from Tirano. I checked into the elegant Grand Hotel della Posta, a 19th-century landmark where Italian terrazzo floors and arched ceilings give the spaces a timeless, quietly refined character. After a day that began in Switzerland’s crisp mountain air and ended amid Italy’s vineyards, I was ready for the next mission: finding the best pizzocheri pasta in town.
Sondrio is famous for this hearty buckwheat noodle dish, tossed with butter, local cheese, potatoes, and cabbage—a perfect reflection of the valley’s alpine soul. The evening unfolded slowly, from an aperitivo under the porticoes to the satisfying melt of Bitto cheese in a steaming bowl of pasta. It was exactly the kind of culinary homecoming that makes this cross-border weekend so rewarding. Read more about my experience at the Grand Hotel Posta Sondrio.
Day 3 – Saturday: Slow Moments in Sondrio
Saturday began the Italian way — with a lazy breakfast at the Grand Hotel della Posta, sunlight spilling through the windows and the smell of espresso drifting through the lobby. After two days of trains and mountain passes, it felt wonderful to move at a slower pace.
I spent the morning exploring Sondrio’s historic center, where narrow stone lanes open into quiet piazzas and the hum of the weekly market fills the air with chatter and the scent of alpine cheeses. From there, I wandered up toward Castel Masegra, the town’s medieval fortress, which offers sweeping views of the vineyards climbing the valley slopes. It’s a reminder that Sondrio isn’t just a stop between trains—it’s the capital of one of Italy’s most underrated wine regions.
And yes, there was more pizzocheri—because in Sondrio, it’s practically a local religion. Each restaurant has its own twist: more butter here, a sharper cheese there, a slightly thicker noodle just down the street. By the afternoon, I was perfectly content to linger with a glass of Valtellina Superiore and watch the sun sink behind the terraced hills. Check out my post on the perfect 1-day itinerary for Sondrio.
Day 4 – Sunday: Morbegno in Cantina & the Journey Home
Sunday started just as gently as the day before — a lazy morning breakfast at the Grand Hotel della Posta, the valley light soft on the terraces, the scent of baking bread and mountain air pressing through open windows. Later, I boarded the regional train toward Morbegno, just about 30 minutes down the line through the lower Valtellina.
When I arrived in Morbegno, I stepped into a town that wears its history lightly but confidently. Morbegno sits in the low Valtellina on the left bank of the Adda River and has long been a hub for valley trade, thanks partly to its position near the San Marco Pass. Its medieval core is dotted with old wineries and townhouses, and in recent centuries it grew in importance due to historic roads like the Priula route, which linked the valley to Bergamo and beyond.
Visiting Morbegno in Cantina
I timed my trip deliberately to coincide with Morbegno in Cantina, one of the autumn wine and food festival weekends — something I’ve come to believe transforms a travel weekend from scenic to soulful. Checking out the festival, tasting mountain Nebbiolo, nibbling cheeses grown on nearby pastures — it was the perfect finish to my four-day journey of food, trains, and alpine vistas.
For a deeper dive into the festival’s atmosphere and tips for next year, along with great restaurants to try the rest of the year, check out my detailed post on Morbegno.
🚉 Bernina Express Route FAQ: Tickets, Trains & Travel Tips
❓Do I need to buy Bernina Express tickets in advance?
Yes — if you’re taking the official Bernina Express panoramic train, it’s best to book early, especially during summer and holiday periods. You’ll need two things:
1️⃣ A ticket for the journey (sold by the Rhaetian Railway), and
2️⃣ A seat reservation, which is required for the panoramic coaches.
You can book both together on the Rhaetian Railway website.
❓How much do Bernina Express and regional train tickets cost?
Prices depend on class and route segment, but here’s a general guide:
- Official Bernina Express panoramic train: Around CHF 33 one-way in 2nd class or CHF 57– in 1st class, plus a seat reservation fee (CHF 28) per person, each direction.
- Regional trains (same route): Around CHF 33 (2nd class) / CHF 57 Euros (1st class) each way from Tirano to St. Moritz, with no reservation required.
For travelers on a budget—or those who love flexibility—the regional trains offer the same scenery however, you save the seat reservatio fees of 28 CHF each direction, with the bonus of openable windows and the freedom to hop off.
❓Can I save money with last-minute or flexible reservations?
Sometimes. The Rhaetian Railway occasionally releases last-minute seats for off-peak departures or shoulder-season dates (especially in April, May, and October). I checked the RhB last minute offers up to 6 days before departure, and found a deal for the Bernina Express 2nd class panoramic coach for 89 CHF round trip Tirano to St. Moritz including seat reservation.
If you’re flexible, the easiest way to save is by taking a regional train, which runs the same Bernina Express Route and requires no reservations.
❓What’s the difference between 1st and 2nd class On the Bernina Express Route?
Both travel the same route and see the same views—the difference is mainly in comfort and space.
- 1st Class: Wider seats, more legroom, and a quieter carriage. Perfect for travelers who want to sit back and enjoy the full route without interruptions. The seats are generally configured as 2 seats on 1 side, and then 1 lane of seats on the other.
- 2nd Class: Slightly smaller seats but still comfortable and scenic. Many travelers choose 2nd class and spend the savings on lunch at Alp Grüm or a boutique hotel overnight. The seats are configured as 2 seats on both sides.
❓Is it worth paying extra for the panoramic train cars on the Bernina Express?
If you’re visiting during crowded periods, yes. The panoramic coaches guarantee a reserved seat and offer floor-to-ceiling windows that curve into the roofline—so even if you can’t move between sides of the car, you’ll still enjoy unobstructed glacier and valley views.
If you prefer flexibility, open windows, and spontaneous stops, the regional trains are just as magical. But during peak travel months, the panoramic option ensures comfort and a guaranteed seat on this popular Europe destination route.
❓Which side of the Bernina Express train has the best views?
- Tirano → St. Moritz: Sit on the left-hand side for the best views of the Brusio Spiral Viaduct, Lago Poschiavo, and Alp Grüm.
- St. Moritz → Tirano: Sit on the right-hand side to catch the glaciers, mountain lakes, and the Bernina Pass in the best light.
If you’re on a regional train with open windows, you might be lucky enough to bounce between sides.
❓Can I ride the same Bernina Express Route without paying for a seat reservation?
Yes! The regional trains follow the exact same Bernina Express Route between Tirano and St. Moritz. They’re slower, stop more often, and cost less—but the scenery is identical.
If you sit in the first three cars, every third window opens halfway—ideal for photography or feeling that crisp mountain air.
❓Where do I buy tickets for the regional trains?
You can buy tickets:
- At Tirano, Pontresina, or St. Moritz stations
- From RhB ticket machines (cash and cards accepted)
- Online via RHB
No seat reservations are required—just board and find a spot.
❓Can I hop on and off along the route?
Yes — that’s one of the joys of traveling by regional train. You can hop off at scenic stops like Cavaglia, Alp Grüm, Ospizio Bernina, or Poschiavo, explore or have lunch, then catch the next train (they run roughly every hour).
On the official Bernina Express, you’ll need to stay on board unless you’ve pre-booked separate route segments.
❓How long does the full Bernina Express Route take?
The full journey from Tirano to St. Moritz takes about 2hours 15 minutes each way. The regional trains take closer to 3 hours depending on stops—but you gain flexibility and far more chances to photograph or linger.
💡 Spritzy’s Takeaway
For most travelers, the smartest combination is this:
- Ride the panoramic Bernina Express once for the full, polished experience.
- Then use the regional trains for open-window photo ops, lunch stops, and flexibility on your way back.
That balance gives you the best of both worlds—comfort and culture—with a touch of affordable luxury that’s entirely your own.
The Route That Redefines Slow Luxury
When I finally boarded the late-afternoon train back to Milan, the weekend felt satisfyingly complete: four days of mountains, trains, and meals that told the story of a region. The Bernina Express Route had delivered its alpine drama, and I completed my mission to find the best Pizzocheri in Sondrio. I’m not sure which of the moments will linger the longest—the taste of melted Bitto cheese, the views from the Bernina Express, the relaxingly chic decor in the Hotel Walther or the unique canteen tastings of a local festival in Morbegno.
If you’re craving a European weekend that blends breathtaking scenery, food with a story, and a slower rhythm of discovery, this route is pure magic. Start planning your own journey—or just let your imagination ride the rails for now.
💬 Have you taken the Bernina Express or visited the Valtellina Valley? I’d love to hear your favorite stops or foodie finds in the comments below.
I want to bring my dad hiking from the Bernina Express for his birthday, after reading about your trip.