Your Borromean Islands Tour Guide: How To See ThE Islands In One Day
There’s something irresistibly exotic about taking a Borromean Islands tour. Even the name sounds like it belongs somewhere far away — refined, almost tropical — not in the middle of a Northern Italian lake. Maybe it’s the palm trees edging the tiered gardens, the white peacocks wandering past marble statues, or the legacy of the Borromeo family, whose aristocratic vision turned these islands into floating expressions of art and status.
If you’re staying in Stresa, the islands seem to hover on the horizon, especially at night when they glow softly across Lake Maggiore. It’s the kind of view that quietly insists you add them to your itinerary.
After ten years of living in Italy and many weekends spent in Stresa, I finally decided it was time. This September, I set out on a Borromean Islands tour, taking advantage of a sunny day when the air was warm but not hot — the perfect weather for a fall escape across the lake.
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Planning Your Borromean Islands Tour- From stresa
Choosing Between Private Boats and the Public Ferry
You don’t need to book a private excursion to enjoy the islands — unless you want to. Around the main parking area in Stresa, where the ferries depart, you’ll see men in sailor’s caps offering small-boat crossings.
They’re charming and often ideal for groups of four to six, but as a solo traveler visiting in September, I preferred the public ferry. It runs on a printed timetable, costs less, and makes planning a Borromean Islands tour simple and stress-free.
Ferry Prices and Routes in 2025
As of 2025, public ferry prices are:
- Isola Bella only – €6.80 round trip
- Isola Bella + Isola dei Pescatori – €9.60 round trip
- All three islands (Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori, Isola Madre) – €16.90 for a full circuit
A €0.50 landing fee per island is added automatically when you purchase your ticket at the ferry counter — no need to pay separately when you disembark.
Tickets are sold directly at the main pier on the Stresa waterfront, and ferries run roughly every 30–45 minutes in the main season (April through October), with fewer departures in the fall. For detailed schedules, check the ferry website directly. Tickets are not time stamped. This makes it convenient, in that you can catch a ferry at any time of the day between the stops you purchased, the ticket just needs to be for the date (day) you purchased.
If you plan to visit multiple islands, it’s best to follow the ferry route’s natural order — Isola Bella first, then Isola dei Pescatori, and finally Isola Madre, the most peaceful and furthest out on Lake Maggiore.
The History Behind the Borromean Islands
The story of the Borromean Islands begins in the 16th century, when one of Milan’s most powerful noble families, the Borromeos, began purchasing the small rocky islets scattered across Lake Maggiore.
What started as humble fishing grounds evolved—over two centuries—into an extraordinary display of wealth, art, and botanical experimentation.
Isola Bella: From Barren Rock to Baroque Wonder
In 1632, Count Carlo III Borromeo began transforming a bare piece of rock into a summer palace worthy of Europe’s elite. He dedicated it to his wife, Isabella D’Adda, giving the island its name — Isola Bella, or “Beautiful Island.”
What followed was one of the most ambitious private building projects of the Italian Baroque era. Architects and artists from Lombardy, Rome, and beyond collaborated on a palace filled with frescoes, tapestries, and stuccoed salons. The ten terraced gardens were laid out like a theatrical stage, filled with statues representing virtues and triumphs, all framed by exotic plants.
It remains the crown jewel of any Borromean Islands tour, a monument not only to family prestige but also to the creative vision that turned stone into spectacle.
Isola Madre: The Family’s Quiet Botanical Retreat
Long before Isola Bella dazzled visitors, Isola Madre served as the Borromeos’ peaceful refuge. The family built a Renaissance-style villa here in the 1500s, later expanding it into a private residence surrounded by experimental gardens.
Exotic species from Asia and the Americas were introduced through the centuries, creating what became one of Italy’s earliest botanical gardens. Today, rare cypress trees, camellias, magnolias, and wisteria climb the slopes, while white peacocks roam the lawns as if continuing the family tradition of cultivated elegance.
If Isola Bella represents theatrical grandeur, Isola Madre reflects quiet sophistication — the side of aristocratic life built around contemplation, not display.
Isola dei Pescatori: A Working Island of Everyday Life
In contrast, Isola dei Pescatori—“the Fishermen’s Island”—belonged not to nobility but to the people who served them. It was a small, functioning village that supplied fish to the Borromeos’ kitchens for generations.
Narrow alleys connect tightly packed homes built to withstand the lake winds, and even today about 50 residents live here year-round. Laundry lines, fishing nets, and café chatter replace palatial grandeur — and yet, this island offers an authenticity that perfectly balances the other two.
A Borromean Islands tour today invites you to step into that layered story — from Baroque ambition to botanical beauty to the rhythm of village life.
Stop One: Isola Bella — Palaces, Gardens, and Peacocks
Arriving on Isola Bella
When you step off the ferry at Isola Bella, the first impression isn’t silence or grandeur — it’s energy. The pier opens into a lively cluster of cafés, souvenir shops, and lakeside bars buzzing with day-trippers. It’s charming in its own way, but the real magic begins once you wander inland.
After about a five-minute walk through narrow lanes lined with shops selling ceramics and limoncello, you’ll reach the Palazzo Borromeo ticket window — the threshold to another world.
Inside the Palazzo Borromeo
The palace, built in the 17th century for Count Carlo III Borromeo and his wife Isabella D’Adda, feels equal parts art gallery and family estate. Room after room is layered with frescoes, marble busts, and paintings that glow in the filtered lake light.
The highlight, though, is entirely unexpected: the shell-clad grottoes on the lower level — cool, dim chambers encrusted with black and white pebbles, coral, and seashells. They were designed for summer respite from the heat, and walking through them still feels like discovering a secret underwater palace.
The Terraced Gardens
Outside, the gardens unfold in perfect Baroque order: ten terraces rising toward the sky, statues of gods and virtues poised among citrus trees, magnolias, and palms. White peacocks wander freely through the greenery, unbothered by cameras. It’s theatrical yet harmonious — the moment when a Borromean Islands tour truly shifts from sightseeing to awe.
Where to Eat on Isola Bella
If you arrive in the morning, pause at Ristorante Magnolia, just steps from the ferry pier, for a cappuccino and lake view. For a quick bite, Piadineria del Fornello serves warm piadine and sandwiches in the €8–€9 range — perfect if you’re keeping things casual.
For something a bit more polished, Ristorante Elveria offers contemporary takes on local fish, like perch fillet with raspberry reduction and gazpacho-style sauce (€19).
And for a long, sit-down lunch, Ristorante Delfino is the showpiece. Set on a floral terrace with marble-topped tables and an awning that filters the afternoon sun, it’s refined without feeling formal.
Their fresh fish of the day with sautéed potatoes and tomatoes (€24) pairs beautifully with a crisp Gavi. The restaurant is part of Hotel Delfino, a graceful place to stay if you’d like to linger once the last ferry departs.
How Much Time to Spend
Allow at least two to 2.5 hours on Isola Bella if you plan to see the palace, stroll the gardens. Build in an extra hour if you want to enjoy lunch. Even in the quieter fall months, the palace entrance line can take time, and you’ll want space to linger on the terraces before continuing your Borromean Islands tour.
Stop Two: Isola dei Pescatori — Café Island
A Living Island With Everyday Charm
After leaving Isola Bella, the ferry makes its next stop at Isola dei Pescatori — the middle leg of every Borromean Islands tour. The route is fixed, so you’ll always arrive here second before continuing to Isola Madre.
The contrast with Isola Bella is instant. The palace grandeur gives way to the sounds of clinking glasses and chatter from lakeside terraces. This is the only island in the archipelago that’s inhabited year-round, and it feels it — an intimate tangle of cobblestoned alleys, balconies strung with laundry, and boats tied to low stone steps. It’s lived-in, authentic, and wonderfully human.
Where to Eat and Drink
Most visitors stop here for lunch, and it’s easy to see why — the entire perimeter is lined with restaurants overlooking the lake. For a stylish yet relaxed setting, Villa Toscanini is an ideal choice. Up a short flight of stone stairs, its terrace features green marble tables, elegant service, and breezy views toward Isola Bella.
Their Spaghetti Armando, bronze-drawn pasta in a clam and octopus sauce (€18), is fresh, flavorful, and perfectly portioned.
If you’d like a little more quiet, head to Ristorante Casa Bella, where the third-floor terrace rises above the crowds. The salmon trout fillet with squid and vegetables (€27) and crisp local white wines make it a refined yet approachable midday stop.
For something more indulgent, Albergo Ristorante El Verbano occupies the island’s far tip and can arrange private evening boat transfers from Stresa or Baveno. Its menu reads like a love letter to the lake: creamed pike with polenta chips (€22), risotto with freshwater ragù (€28), and fried lake fish with aioli foam (€30).
The setting — wide terraces facing the sunset — feels relaxed, not ostentatious, and suits the tone of an “affordable luxury” escape.
What to See and How Long to Stay
After lunch, take a circular walk — the entire island can be covered in under 25 minutes. Stop at the Church of San Vittore, built in the 1600s and still used by locals, its gilded altar softly lit by votive candles. Wander through the back lanes, where fishing nets hang on balconies and the lake glints between narrow gaps in the houses.
There’s little in the way of formal sights here, but that’s the charm. Order a spritz or espresso, sit by the water, and let the boats drift by. It’s the quiet midpoint of any Borromean Islands tour, where the day slows down before you continue to Isola Madre.
Stop Three: Isola Madre — Botanical Serenity and Aristocratic Leisure
The Villa and Its Quiet Legacy
From Isola dei Pescatori, the ferry continues its circuit to Isola Madre, the third and final island on the Borromean Islands tour. It’s the most tranquil and perhaps the most refined — the Borromeos’ original estate and their long-standing retreat from court life.
The Renaissance-style villa sits at the island’s heart, surrounded by centuries-old trees and manicured gardens. Inside, the atmosphere is intimate rather than grand. Portraits of family members line the walls, and antique musical instruments and painted ceilings reflect a quieter expression of aristocratic living. One highlight is the small puppet theater — a whimsical relic from the 1800s once used for private family performances.
The Botanical Gardens
Outside, the gardens are nothing short of magnificent. Designed over generations, they mix English landscaping principles with Italian formality. Towering cypresses and magnolias share space with exotic species collected from Asia and South America, flourishing in the island’s mild microclimate. The air smells faintly of camellias and lake water, and white peacocks wander freely through the grass like living ornaments.
It’s here that the Borromeo vision feels most complete — a dialogue between nature and design, luxury and restraint.
Timing and Experience
By the time you reach Isola Madre, the afternoon light has usually softened, making it an ideal final stop for photography and quiet wandering. Allow at least two hours if you plan to visit both the villa and gardens before catching the last ferry back to Stresa.
Because the public ferry route requires visiting the islands in order — Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori, then Isola Madre — you’ll want to start early if you hope to see all three comfortably. The day’s first departures from Stresa usually begin around 9:00 a.m.
That said, don’t treat it as a checklist. The real reward of a Borromean Islands tour lies in slowing down: sipping coffee on one island, walking through palace halls on another, and ending the day surrounded by the scent of camellias and the sound of peacocks calling across the water.
An Alternate Ending to the Day
If you’re visiting in the warmer months, you may decide to skip Isola Madre entirely and return to Stresa after Isola dei Pescatori. The Borromean Islands tour can feel full — there’s a lot to take in — and sometimes the most luxurious choice is knowing when to pause.
Back on the mainland, an afternoon swim and a cocktail by your hotel pool (the Grand Hotel Bristol is an especially elegant spot for this) can be the perfect way to let the day sink in. From the terrace, you’ll see the islands glowing across the lake as evening light settles over the water.
Tips for Your Borromean Islands Tour
- Ferry departure point: Ferries depart from the Navigazione Lago Maggiore pier on Piazzale Marconi, directly across from Stresa’s lakefront promenade. It’s about a 10-minute walk downhill from the Stresa train station, and ticket counters are well-marked near the docks.
- Ferry timing: Boats from Stresa depart roughly every 30–45 minutes from April through October, with reduced service in late fall.
- Ferry tickets (2025): €6.80 for Isola Bella, €9.60 for Isola Bella + Isola dei Pescatori, and €16.90 for the full three-island circuit. The €0.50 landing fee per island is included in your ticket purchase.
- Palace and garden entry: Tickets for the Isola Bella Palace & Gardens cost €23, while Isola Madre is €20. A combined ticket for both offers a small discount and can be purchased at either palace or online.
- Time planning: Isola Bella (2–2.5 hours), Isola dei Pescatori (1–1.5 hours), Isola Madre (2 hours).
- Best season: Late April through June for vivid blooms, or September through early October for calm weather and soft light.
- Dress smart: Comfortable shoes for cobblestones and terraces, and layers for breezy ferry rides.
- Bring cash: Some cafés and smaller kiosks may not accept cards.
How To Get There
From Milan, trains to Stresa run frequently throughout the day. The fastest option is the EuroCity service, which reaches Stresa in just 59 minutes. Slower regional trains take between 1 hour 10 minutes and 1.5 hours, depending on stops. Trains depart from Milano Centrale, and the Stresa station is an easy 10-minute walk downhill to the ferry dock.
If you’re driving, the journey north along the A8/A26 motorways takes about 90 minutes, with paid parking lots near the lakefront and ferry terminals.
Staying overnight turns a day trip into an adventure. Watching the islands light up across the water from your balcony at the Grand Hotel Bristol feels like a private encore to the day. Other elegant options include Hotel La Palma and Hotel Milan Speranza au Lac, both just steps from the ferry terminal.
The Spirit of the Islands
Whether you visit all three islands or just two, a Borromean Islands tour captures the essence of Northern Italy’s quiet grandeur — art, gardens, and good living intertwined. It’s cultural without being formal, refined without being pretentious, and ideal for travelers who love beauty at an unhurried pace.
Stresa makes a perfect weekend escape from Milan, yet it’s close enough to manage as a day trip if you start early. In summer, ferries glide across the lake under endless sunshine; in fall, the cooler air and soft light make aperitivo hour feel even more rewarding.
If Milan is your base, explore more Spritzience favorites:
- Find out more great things to do in Milan
- Plan more great day trips from Milan
- See my Milan to Lake Como day trip with the best spritz spots
- Take an incredible day trip to Pavia and see the spectacular Battle of Pavia tapestries
And for more dreamy Italian lake destinations:
A Borromean Islands tour may start as a simple ferry ride, but it ends as a layered experience — where palaces, peacocks, and lake views come together in perfect Italian harmony.
