Vintage Glamour At The Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy — The Most Underrated Luxury Stay
A Poolside Escape With Old-World Charm
When Milan turns into a humid, sweltering summer furnace and the temperatures climb into the mid-90s, my mind instantly drifts to the Italian lakes and shimmering poolside escapes. This year, that search for cool water and vintage elegance led me to Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy, a Belle Époque landmark perched above the “Garden City.”
I’ve always had a soft spot for vintage grand hotels — the kind with marble staircases, chandeliers, and stories layered into every hallway. What I found here was a true retreat: a newly restored blue pool set deep within sprawling gardens, a vintage bar made for a Campari spritz (or two), and dinner under the stars surrounded by candlelight and Liberty-style colonnades — all in the name of affordable luxury.
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A Hilltop Arrival
Set on Colle Campigli, Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy has the kind of presence that makes you slow down. The façade rises from the trees like a film still from the early 1900s — symmetrical balconies, ornate stucco, and stone lions guarding the front steps.
Getting there takes a little planning: the hilltop setting means the train station is too far to walk, but the hotel offers a free shuttle between 10 and noon and again in the afternoon. Otherwise, a short taxi ride brings you to the entrance framed by flowers and crisp mountain air.
A Brief History of Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy
When it opened in 1913, Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy was considered one of northern Italy’s most elegant new hotels — a showpiece of the Belle Époque and a symbol of Varese’s growing reputation as the “Garden City.” Designed by Giuseppe Sommaruga, a leading figure of Italy’s Stile Liberty (its take on Art Nouveau), the hotel was built to welcome Milan’s elite escaping the city’s summer heat.
The design combined ornate Liberty motifs with modern amenities that were groundbreaking for the time — electric lighting, running water, and sweeping views from almost every window. Its most iconic feature remains the series of outdoor colonnades that wrap around the terrace and dining areas, each flanked by carved stone lions and crowned with decorative capitals. By night, these colonnades still glow under candlelight, a living reminder of the hotel’s century-old charm.
Gardens That Invite You to Linger
The gardens surrounding Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy are immense — more like a private park than hotel grounds. Winding paths lead past manicured lawns, secluded benches, and quiet terraces where you can read, sip coffee, or simply listen to the breeze through the trees. It’s a place designed for wandering — one of those rare hotels where you notice a new architectural flourish or statue every time you walk through.
The Pool: Tranquility in Blue
The newly renovated pool is what drew me here. Set apart from the main building, the pool feels private and calm — no sound of cars or chatter, just water and garden.
The design is simple but elegant: a deep, lap-length stretch of blue with broad stairs running the full length, perfect for sitting half-submerged in the water. Pool bags and robes are already waiting in your room — a small detail, but one that shows how well the hotel anticipates what guests need.
The pool bar might be my favorite spot. I wasn’t even thirsty, but the vintage aesthetic — the wood, the tiles, the quiet soundtrack of conversation and ice clinking — made me want to order something just to soak in the atmosphere. No guests making loud phone calls, no crowds — just the hum of summer air and the glint of sunlight on water. It felt, quite simply, like heaven.
Dinner at Liberty Restaurant
Dinner at Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy was one of those experiences that draws you in quietly and leaves you completely charmed. The outdoor Restaurant Liberty unfolds like a Belle Époque stage: a colonnade lined with carved lions, white curtains fluttering in the breeze, and candlelight casting a soft glow on the stone.
I admired the small details — the symmetry of the columns, the crisp white tablecloths, the low murmur of diners with cocktails in hand. I ordered a steak, which somehow felt like the right dish for this glamorous yet relaxed setting. The entire evening had a timeless rhythm — elegant, unhurried, and perfectly Italian.
Breakfast With a View
The next morning, breakfast at the Palace Grand Hotel in Varese, Italy, turned into an exploration. I wandered the dining room, scouting out what I decided was the best table — the one tucked along the row of tall picture windows overlooking the gardens.
Once seated, I realized I wasn’t in any hurry. The buffet was simple but fresh — pastries, fruit, cheese, and proper coffee served with care. I enjoyed it so much I ordered a second cappuccino, mostly as an excuse to stay put and keep taking in the view.
Rooms With Character
My single room at Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy surprised me in the best way. Single rooms in Europe often feel like an afterthought, but this one had polish and personality — wood floors, a marble bathroom, and enough space to stretch out. It felt personal and quietly elegant, with just enough patina to remind you of its history.
The atmosphere was calm, almost cinematic. I opened the shutters to soft morning light and thought, “This is what Italian summer should feel like.”
Liberty Style, Italian Soul
Inside, the hotel’s Liberty architecture still steals the show. The sweeping stone staircase curls upward beneath wrought-iron railings, lit by Murano chandeliers that cast soft gold across the walls.
It’s unmistakably early 1900s — elegant, balanced, and richly detailed. Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy still carries the spirit of that era, even as Wi-Fi and keycards coexist with frescoed ceilings and colonnades. The only space that could use a little revival is the lobby, which still wears the pale leather and chrome of a bygone update. But with the gardens and pool so inviting, I hardly noticed.
Things To Do Around Varese
Varese makes a brilliant base for exploring northern Italy’s lakes and landscapes. From Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy, you can easily reach the town of Como, Lake Como — about an hour away — for a day of ferries, villas, and aperitivo by the water. (I’ve written about one of my favorite less-touristy spots in Como Town that’s perfect for lunch with a view.)
If you’re craving classic lake grandeur, head to Stresa and the Borromean Islands on nearby Lake Maggiore. The islands’ baroque palaces and gardens rival anything on Como, and the train from Varese makes it an effortless day trip.
For something truly spectacular, plan a journey on the Bernina Express, the famous red train that glides across the Alps between Italy and Switzerland — one of the world’s most beautiful rail routes and an easy addition to a northern Italy itinerary.
Closer to home, Varese itself is full of surprises: the UNESCO-listed Sacro Monte di Varese, elegant villas and art museums, and weekend markets filled with local food and design. Wine lovers can also spend the afternoon touring nearby Lombardy vineyards, sampling crisp whites from Valtènesi or robust reds from the Oltrepò Pavese hills.
Still, the best part of staying at Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy might be that you can do all that — or none of it. There’s something to be said for simply claiming a chair in the garden, ordering a Negroni, and watching the light fade over the lakes.
A Smart Kind of Luxury
What makes Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy such a find is how effortlessly it combines heritage, comfort, and value. The setting rivals Lake Como for views, but at a fraction of the price and with far fewer crowds.
It’s luxury made approachable — a place where you can have space, quiet, and vintage design without pretense. Whether you’re a design lover, a pool devotee, or someone craving calm, this hotel delivers sophistication that feels personal, not performative.
The city of Varese itself adds another layer of intrigue. It’s home to the Sacro Monte di Varese, part of the Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy UNESCO World Heritage Site — a stunning pilgrimage complex of chapels, frescoes, and panoramic views over the lakes. Just a short drive from the hotel, it’s a must-see for architecture and history enthusiasts alike.
Getting There
From Milan, take a regional train to Varese FN or Varese FS (about one hour). The free hotel shuttle runs from 10:00 a.m. to 12:15 p.m. and again from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.; call ahead to confirm a spot. A taxi from the station costs around €15–20. If you’re driving, free parking awaits at the top of the hill.
FAQs About Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy
1. Is Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy worth visiting?
Absolutely. It’s one of Lombardy’s most underrated hotels, offering Liberty-style architecture, panoramic gardens, and a newly renovated pool — all at a fraction of Lake Como prices.
2. How do I get to Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy from Milan?
Take a regional train to Varese (about one hour). The hotel provides a free shuttle during limited hours, or you can take a short taxi ride to the hilltop entrance.
3. Does Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy have a pool and bar?
Yes. The pool is newly redone, set apart in the gardens for peace and quiet. There’s also a vintage-style pool bar perfect for a morning espresso or an afternoon Campari spritz.
4. What UNESCO sites are near Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy?
The Sacro Monte di Varese, part of the UNESCO-listed Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy, is just a short drive away. It’s famous for its chapels, frescoes, and sweeping lake views.
5. What are the best day trips from Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy?
Popular choices include Lake Como (ideal for a ferry ride and lunch in Como Town), Lake Maggiore and the Borromean Islands near Stresa, the Bernina Express red train to Switzerland, and nearby Lombardy wine regions.
AFfordable Luxury Hotel Stays
I arrived at Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy chasing cool water on a hot Milanese day and left wishing I’d booked another night. It’s the kind of stay that reminds you why Italy’s smaller cities deserve more attention — a place where history, design, and tranquility live side by side.
If you’re planning a Milan itinerary, this makes an ideal overnight escape or an easy addition to a weekend of Italian Lakes wanderings. You can find more inspiration in my guide to 20 Day Trips from Milan, which includes scenic routes, lake towns, and cultural gems worth adding to your list.
For those who love hotels with character but not the sky-high prices, I’ve shared more of my favorite affordable luxury stays: the romantic Villa Cipriani in Asolo, Italy, the elegant alpine retreat Hotel Walther in Pontresina, Switzerland, and the design-forward CBR Boutique Hotel in Coimbra, Portugal and the Grand Hotel Della Posta with incredible views across Sondrio’s main square and vineyards. Each one captures the same spirit of comfort, authenticity, and quiet indulgence that makes Palace Grand Hotel Varese Italy such a standout.
