Portofino Beach Clubs-5 Unique Spots For A Spritz
Last Updated on November 3, 2025 by spritzience
Picture yourself lounging on a teak deck at one of the Portofino beach clubs, spritz in hand, sunlight glinting off Dior-patterned umbrellas and Dolce & Gabbana-printed cushions. You know those images in glossy design magazines — the ones that make you wish you could teleport straight into that perfect Italian summer? That’s the scene I set out to experience for myself.
I’d been to Portofino a few times before, usually for a stroll through the harbor or a long lunch under striped awnings. But this time, I wanted to see it from a different angle — from the decks of the Portofino beach clubs, where the Milanese elite come to play and the rest of us dream of joining them.
Of course, Italy — and especially the Italian Riviera — has a bit of a reputation when it comes to lido life. Sunbeds don’t come cheap, and Portofino, the queen of luxury, boasts some of the priciest in the country: up to €250 for a chair at the most exclusive clubs. I was on a mission to find out whether it was possible to live that same Riviera dream on an affordable-luxury budget.
In the past few years, I’ve spent part of a few of my summers renting an apartment in Camogli, the next stop on the train after Santa Margherita Ligure–Portofino. It’s one of those fishing towns that feels like a secret even locals want to keep — where time slows, espresso bars still know your order by heart, and I’m affectionately known as l’Americana (in the warm, familiar way, not the foreign one).
Let me show you five of my favorite stops — a mix of Portofino beach clubs, chic bars, and hidden aperitivo gems that prove glamour doesn’t have to come with a sky-high price tag.
1. Cova Paraggi – The Morning Ritual Near Portofino Beach Clubs
Every Portofino day should start with something delicious, and for me, that’s Cova. Just a 20-minute walk from Portofino’s central piazza, in the little bay of Paraggi, sits this elegant outpost of Milan’s historic pastry bar.
Founded in 1817 next to La Scala, Cova has long been the haunt of Milan’s high society — Verdi, Hemingway, and generations of stylish Italians. But here on the coast, it takes on a slower, sun-kissed rhythm. Locals sip cappuccinos beside bronzed beachgoers heading to the nearby Paraggi beach clubs.
I usually order a cappuccino and a pistachio cornetto, lingering just long enough to watch the morning sunlight dance on the Ligurian waters. Cova Paraggi’s terrace feels like the Riviera at its most effortless: refined, familiar, and quietly glamorous.
For more coastal gems like this, see 5 Italian Riviera Towns.
2. Bagni Fiore & Langosteria – Where Dior Meets the Sea
Take a few steps from Cova and you’ll reach one of the best Portofino beach clubs — Bagni Fiore. Once a quiet local retreat, it’s now a dazzling fashion icon thanks to Dior’s takeover of its umbrellas, loungers, and bar.
The rattan seating, soft blue-and-white fabrics, and elegant setup instantly make you feel like you’ve stepped into a Dior campaign. DJs spin in the early afternoon, and the vibe oscillates between Riviera chill and runway chic.
What I loved most about Bagni Fiore was that I skipped the sunbed altogether. Instead, I settled into one of the cushioned rattan chairs for aperitivo, watching the DJ ease into a mellow set as the sunlight danced across the bay.
I’d come on a weekday during the first week of September — the sweet spot when locals reclaim the coast and the crowds begin to thin. With plenty of open space, I spent a blissful couple of hours reading, sipping (okay, two) spritzes, and soaking in that soft Ligurian glow.
If you do feel like splurging, reserve a sunbed (€150–€250 per day) and make a full afternoon of it — but even without one, you’ll still catch the essence of the Portofino beach club experience: fashion, sea breeze, and a touch of indulgence that feels entirely your own.
Langosteria
Next door, Langosteria Paraggi brings Milan’s culinary finesse to the seaside. This seafood temple has the sophistication of a fine-dining restaurant with the relaxed energy of the Riviera.
Order oysters, red shrimp, and a Hugo Spritz — the quintessential Portofino aperitivo — and enjoy front-row views of the most exclusive Ligurian Riviera beach clubs.
3. Le Carillon Beach Club – Dolce & Gabbana Glamour in Paraggi Bay
A few steps farther along the curve of Paraggi Bay lies Le Carillon, another name synonymous with Portofino luxury travel. Since the 1930s, this historic Paraggi beach club has been one of the Riviera’s most glamorous addresses — and after its redesign by Dolce & Gabbana, it’s become a full sensory experience of color, pattern, and Italian flair.Le Carillon Beach Club – Dolce & Gabbana
This is beyond a doubt one of the most glamorous spots to enjoy a cocktail and a meal. Completely bedecked in Dolce & Gabbana Verde Maiolica fabrics, the elegant decor calls out to design lovers and fashionistas alike.
Design Heaven on the Ligurian Riviera
Verdant Verde Maiolica fabrics cover everything from umbrellas to banquettes, with floral details and tiled accents that beckon you to wander. Inside, there’s a chic restaurant and a D&G pop-up boutique, but my favorite perch is on the teak deck that overhangs the water.
The deck has two levels: the lower features sleek beach loungers for daily rental, while the upper combines loungers, a five-stool mini-bar, and directors’ chairs gathered around white wooden tables — all overlooking the bay dressed in those unmistakable Dolce & Gabbana prints. Every detail has been considered, right down to the coaster under my Hugo Spritz — the brand’s white-and-green Maiolica pattern mirrored perfectly against the sea below.
This is also one of the best spots to book a long, lazy lunch or a sunset dinner. And when evening arrives, the DJ starts spinning, the crowd shifts effortlessly from beachwear to linen and silk, and Le Carillon turns into one of the most atmospheric aperitivo scenes among the Portofino beach clubs.
4. American Bar La Gritta – A Floating Aperitivo in the Heart of Portofino
Back in Portofino’s harbor, between pastel houses and bobbing boats, sits American Bar La Gritta — a staple among Portofino bars and restaurants and one of the most distinctive spots in town.
Lunch, Cocktails, and People-Watching on the Water
What makes La Gritta special is its setting: a floating dock that gently bobs with the tide as yachts glide in and out of the harbor. The movement is subtle but constant, giving it a relaxed, almost cinematic charm.
It’s a fantastic place for lunch, an afternoon cocktail, or a prime people-watching session as the parade of locals, Milanese weekenders, and well-heeled visitors strolls past. From my table, a Hugo Spritz in hand, I watched reflections ripple across the water while waiters whisked out chilled Franciacorta and seafood plates with effortless elegance.
This isn’t one of the traditional Portofino beach clubs, but it captures the same spirit — that blend of style, sunshine, and sparkling glassware that defines life on the Ligurian Riviera.
Basing yourself in Milan and popping down for the weekend? Plan the culture-meets-aperitivo side of your city break with my Ultimate Guide to Milan Italy Things To Do.
5. Portofinese Lighthouse Bar – A Hidden Gem Over the Sea
At the far end of the peninsula, where the path winds past villas and olive groves, you’ll find Portofinese, often called the Lighthouse Bar. It’s a scenic 20-minute walk from the town center, but every step rewards you with views straight out of a dream.
Perched on a cliff overlooking the open sea, this tiny bar offers two terraces: one just off the path and another beside the lighthouse itself. Order a Negroni or a Hugo Spritz and watch as the horizon melts into gold.
This spot has become a favorite among Portofino beach club regulars — the perfect ending to a Riviera day, away from the crowds but close enough to hear the sea echo below.
Bonus: Covo di Nord Est – The Riviera’s Legendary Night Beach Club
If you think Portofino beach clubs are only for daytime lounging, Covo di Nord Est proves otherwise. Halfway between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure, this historic grotto-turned-nightclub has been the Riviera’s nightlife icon since the 1930s.
Once frequented by Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot, and the Agnelli family, today it’s part restaurant, part seaside club, and entirely cinematic. Dining under limestone arches while waves crash outside feels like stepping back into Italy’s golden age.
Stay late for the DJ sets — or just sip a final spritz under the moonlight before catching a taxi back to town.
Getting to The Portofino Beach Clubs
The closest major city to Portofino — and to most of the Portofino beach clubs — is Genoa, served by frequent train connections and a small international airport. The easiest way to reach Portofino is by train to Santa Margherita Ligure–Portofino, then continuing by ferry or bus.
Bus 782 departs from just outside the Santa Margherita train station and makes the scenic 30-minute trip to Portofino several times an hour during the summer months. It stops conveniently at Paraggi (about a 20-minute walk from Portofino’s main piazza) and also at Covo di Nord Est in Santa Margherita. You can purchase tickets at the bar and newsstand immediately to the left as you exit the station.
The ferry from Santa Margherita runs less frequently but is, without question, the most beautiful way to arrive — sailing past villas, pine-covered hills, and the coastline that inspired so many Riviera daydreams. Schedules vary by season and can be downloaded from the local ferry company’s website.
There’s no train directly to Portofino itself, so your options are to arrive by bus, ferry, or on foot via the coastal hiking paths — or, if you’re feeling glamorous, by private boat or yacht.
the Fastest Trains To PORTOFino
Reaching the Portofino beach clubs is half the fun. The nearest major hub is Santa Margherita Ligure, accessible by train from Genoa, Milan, Florence, or Rome.
- From Milan: about 2 hours (direct EC train)
- From Florence: 3 hours 15 minutes (change in Pisa)
- From Rome: 4 hours 45 minutes (change in Chiavari)
- From Venice: 5 hours 45 minutes (via Milan and Genoa)
For detailed schedules, check TrenItalia directly. From Santa Margherita, take the bus 782 or a ferry to Portofino. Both offer stunning views of the Riviera coastline and stop conveniently at Paraggi beach clubs along the way — including Covo di Nord Est.
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also walk the coastal path through olive groves and hidden coves, or rent a small boat for the day — a favorite Milanese weekend ritual.
For another seaside jewel nearby, visit Portovenere.
FAQ – Visiting Portofino Beach Clubs
Are Portofino beach clubs open to non-hotel guests?
Yes, most are open to anyone with a reservation. You don’t need to be a hotel guest to enjoy sunbeds or restaurants at Paraggi’s beach clubs.
How much do Portofino beach clubs cost?
Expect €100–€250 for a pair of loungers and an umbrella during high season, depending on location and amenities.
When is the best time to visit Portofino beach clubs?
Late May through September offers ideal weather. For fewer crowds, come in June or early September — still warm but more peaceful.
What should you wear to Portofino beach clubs?
Think chic but relaxed: linen, light colors, and resort wear. Italians love understated elegance — even when barefoot.
Continue the Journey: From Riviera Waves to Piedmont Wine Country
The beauty of Portofino is how close it feels to everything else that makes Northern Italy irresistible. After soaking up the sun at these Portofino beach clubs, extend your trip inland to Piedmont’s wine country — just a two-hour drive away.
Spend a few days among rolling vineyards, Barbaresco towers, and hazelnut-scented towns. Wander through Neive, a village so pretty it feels painted, or follow my Barbaresco Itinerary for scenic tastings with panoramic views. And if food is your love language, Alba is a must — a town that smells of truffles, chocolate, and slow afternoons.
Between the Ligurian Riviera beach clubs and Piedmont vineyards, you’ll have the perfect Italy contrast: seaside glamour and countryside soul.
Pack Your Spritz Spirit and Head to Portofino
Whether you’re sipping under a Dior umbrella, floating on a pier at sunset, or dancing inside a grotto, the Portofino beach clubs remind you that Italian summer isn’t just a season — it’s a feeling.
And if you find yourself returning, year after year, don’t be surprised when the locals start greeting you with a smile and a wave: “Eccola, l’Americana!”
Portofino Beach Clubs Resources
Pack your bags, set out on your own adventure, and experience the magic of Portofino beach clubs and aperitivos for yourself.
- American Bar (La Gritta): Calata Marconi 20, 16034 Portofino, +39 0185 269126
- Bar Fiore (Dior): Via Paraggi a mare 1, 16038 Paraggi, +39 0185 284 831
- Carillon (Dolce & Gabbana): Via Paraggi a mare 10, 16038 Paraggi, +39 0185 286 721
- Cova Paraggi: Via Paraggi a Mare 5, 16038 Paraggi, +39 353 426 6855
- Covo di Nord Est: Lungomare Raffaele Rossetti 1, 16035 Santa Margherita Ligure, +39 0185 290 348
- Langosteria: Via Paraggi a mare 1, 16038 Paraggi, +39 0185 046 284
- Portofinese: Via Alla Penisola 18, 16034 Portofino
