For The Love Of Food: Annecy Christmas Market
Gourmet cheese lovers, consider this your call to the Alps — the Annecy Christmas Market is a feast of molten raclette, bubbling tartiflette, and creamy fondue served in one of France’s most gorgeous medieval old towns. I arrived by train from Milan, with a quick stop in Geneva, spending the night in Annecy France en route to the Lyon Festival of Lights.
I’d been here before on my way to go skiing, but returning for Christmas in Europe revealed a delicious surprise: I have never seen so many gourmet cheese offerings at a Christmas market — or in a town — in my life.
First I lingered over restaurant menus, enchanted by the fairy lights and festive garlands draped over balconies, then wandered the market chalets to see what was sizzling.
Unlike the Lisbon Christmas Market, where sunshine is part of the charm, Annecy is all about crisp Alpine air and melted cheese. In the end, I decided on dinner at Le Fréti, a local institution for cheese lovers, because as a self-confessed tartiflette fan, I couldn’t resist going straight to the source.
Somewhere between my first bite of gooey Reblochon and the last scrape of potatoes from the pan, I knew I’d found one of the best Christmas markets in France — not just for gifts, but for pure, unadulterated food joy.
Why Annecy Is a Winter Dream for Food Lovers
Annecy doesn’t just look like a Christmas card — it feels like one you can taste. The cobbled lanes of the Old Town wind between pastel-colored buildings, their balconies wrapped in twinkling lights and pine garlands. Down every street, the scent of melted cheese mingles with the crisp Alpine air.
This isn’t your typical French Christmas market where the food is just a festive extra; here, the culinary experience is half the reason to visit. Nestled between the lake and the mountains, Annecy’s winter menus read like a love letter to cheese.
Savoie traditions: Reblochon baked over potatoes, raclette scraped fresh onto crusty bread, fondue bubbling with white wine, and plates piled high with local charcuterie. Combine that with the glow of the Christmas market chalets, the clinking of mugs filled with vin chaud, and the reflection of festive lights dancing on the canals, and you’ve got a setting that’s as indulgent for the eyes as it is for the palate.
Annecy Christmas Market Overview
The Annecy Christmas Market — part of the city’s annual Noël des Alpes celebration — transforms the town from late November to early January (exact 2025 dates still to be confirmed). The festivities are spread across three main areas:
- Old Town Chalets – Around 80 wooden stalls line the cobblestone streets, selling everything from handmade crafts to steaming tartiflette, roasted chestnuts, and decadent nougat.
- Village des Alpes – A cozy Alpine-style square with an ice rink, chalet bars, and more hot food options, perfect for an après-skate snack.
- Village des Artisans – Near the Courier shopping center, showcasing regional crafts and gourmet gifts ideal for holiday shopping.
And then there’s my personal favorite — the Village Gourmand — a foodie playground housed inside a giant tent. The moment I walked in, the air was filled with the scent of sizzling cheese and the pulse of a live DJ spinning festive beats. There were plenty of long communal tables for tucking into your plate, and while it was warmer than the open-air chalets, little pockets of cold air drifted through, keeping you in that Alpine winter mood.
The food and drink selection was nothing short of epic: croziflette (a pasta-and-cheese dream from Savoie), smoky diot sausages, bubbling tartiflette, oozy raclette scraped straight onto bread, and wedges of golden Reblochon that could melt the heart of any cheese lover. Pair that with a mug of vin chaud or a glass of local wine, and you’ll see why this tent is a must on any Annecy France Christmas itinerary.
Why Savoyard Cheese Has a Cult Following
If there’s one thing that sets the Annecy Christmas Market apart from many others in France at Christmas, it’s the devotion to Savoyard cheese. This region, part of historic Savoie in the French Alps, has the perfect conditions for cheese-making — lush mountain pastures, alpine herbs, and centuries-old techniques passed down through generations.
Many of the cheeses here carry PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status, meaning they must be produced in a specific area using traditional methods. The result? Rich, flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth cheeses that are the beating heart of Alpine winter cuisine.
Stars of the Cheese Case:
- Reblochon – The soul of tartiflette, soft and nutty, with a 13th-century origin story involving “re-milking” cows after tax inspections.
- Raclette – Semi-soft, perfect for melting and scraping over bread, potatoes, or charcuterie.
- Tomme de Savoie – Rustic, earthy, and worth seeking out for a more understated flavor.
- Goat Cheese (Chèvre) – Tangy and fresh, sometimes baked or served warm over bread.
Savoyard Dishes to Try:
- Tartiflette – Potatoes, smoky bacon, onions, and Reblochon baked until golden.
- Croziflette – Tartiflette’s pasta cousin, made with tiny buckwheat or wheat pasta squares.
- Raclette (the dish) – Cheese scraped from a heated wheel onto potatoes or bread.
- Fondue Savoyarde – A communal pot of melted cheeses with white wine and garlic, for dipping bread cubes — and maybe starting a friendly competition.
A Food Lover’s Tour Through the Market
After making a last-minute reservation at Le Fréti for a proper tartiflette dinner, I set out to graze my way through the Annecy Christmas Market. I started in the Old Town, weaving along the quai where the chalets sat against a backdrop of twinkling lights and canal reflections.
My mission was simple: take in the gifts, admire the decorations, and sample as much cheese as I could before dinner.
My first snack was a golden pretzel smothered in melted cheese — with seven different Savoyard varieties to choose from, including Reblochon, raclette, and goat cheese. Each one was tempting enough to derail my dinner plans — much like the overflowing stalls I’ve seen in Colmar’s Christmas Market and Asti’s slow-food festival.
The variety of market food was dazzling: roasted ham sandwiches, croziflette, tartiflette bubbling in giant skillets, gingerbread loaves, Italian pasta tossed in parmesan wheels, and cheesy potatoes.
In between bites, I browsed for whimsical chocolate animals, Au Petit Terroir for artisan cheeses, and the Artisan Boulangerie for croissants I’d enjoy at breakfast.
Vin chaud in hand, I caught four projection mapping shows with music at Hôtel de Ville, Palais de l’Île, Église Saint-Maurice, and Bonlieu Scène Nationale.
Then it was time for the Village Gourmand — a DJ spinning Mariah Carey, a plate of cheese heaven (croziflette, tartiflette, raclette, Reblochon), and a lively crowd that kept me lingering far longer than planned.
Le Fréti: The Cheese Lover’s Holy Grail
When I walked into Le Fréti, I realized just how lucky I was to have scored a last-minute reservation. My seat was a single stool in the cozy downstairs bar; upstairs was fully booked. I wandered up briefly to admire the cheese display — rows of wheels behind gorgeous glass-fronted bookshelves, like a library for cheese devotees.
Then of course, there’s the menu- to give you an example there were 12 types of fondue. La Freti was made with white wine, 12 month old comte, 24 month old comte, Tarentaise, and Emmenthal. Then there were 3 types with mushrooms and fondues from different areas – the Alps, French regions etc. It was similiar with the raclette- 8 different types on offer by area: savoy, jura, switzerland, and type – goat cheese and smoked.
I even played translator for an Italian couple who were shocked to find Thursday and Friday already booked solid — a reminder to make reservations in advance.
My tartiflette arrived bubbling, layered with potatoes, lardons (bacon pieces), onions, cream and molten Reblochon so creamy it could have been dessert. There were also versions with goat cheese or blue cheese (Blue de Cox) that I’m sure were incredible too. I’m actually struggling to write this post today, just thinking about how and when I can go back for more. I’ve had Google Maps open a few times today – checking driving times, routes, and then looking at train schedules.
My Italian family loves cheese to no end, so hopefully I can convince someone to go with me. I know you’re reading this, and I’m even considering buying a vacuum sealer to entice you – just think of all the cheese we could bring back this winter- when the salad days are over.
After dinner, I headed back to the Village Gourmand for one last vin chaud, music still playing, and the perfect cheesy finale to the night.
Getting to the Annecy Christmas Market
One of the joys of visiting the Annecy Christmas Market is how easy it is to reach without a car. If you’re coming from Switzerland, Geneva is just over an hour away by train, making it perfect for a quick festive escape or a weekend getaway.
From Paris, high-speed TGV trains whisk you to Annecy in under four hours — you could leave the capital in the morning and be sipping vin chaud under the twinkling lights by late afternoon.
And if you’re traveling from Lyon, it’s only around two hours, which is why I paired Annecy with the Lyon Festival of Lights for a winter trip that balanced alpine coziness with dazzling city energy. Arriving by train drops you right in the center, just a short walk from the Old Town and market action, so you can be tasting tartiflette within minutes of stepping off the platform.
My 2-Hour Foodie Itinerary
If your time in Annecy is short but your appetite is big, here’s what I did to taste the best of the Annecy Christmas Market without rushing the magic.
Start in the Old Town chalets with a steaming vin chaud to warm your hands, paired with a pretzel smothered in the Savoyard cheese of your choice — Reblochon, raclette, or chèvre if you’re feeling tangy. Stroll along the quai as the canals mirror the lights, stopping for a chocolate lollipop from the Christmas market that’s almost too pretty to eat.
Make your way to the Village Gourmand tent for a hearty plate of croziflette or tartiflette and a glass of local wine, letting the DJ’s playlist set your pace. Afterward, shop for cheese gifts at Au Petit Terroir and breakfast-worthy croissants from the Artisan Boulangerie before heading back out to catch the projection mapping shows at Hôtel de Ville, Palais de l’Île, Église Saint-Maurice, and Bonlieu Scène Nationale.
End the night with a bubbling tartiflette at Le Fréti, then return to the Village Gourmand for one last vin chaud — because some nights deserve an encore.
- Old Town chalets for vin chaud + cheese pretzel.
- Quai stroll + chocolate lollipop from Paul Machenaud.
- Village Gourmand for croziflette or tartiflette.
- Shop Au Petit Terroir + Artisan Boulangerie.
- Projection mapping shows.
- Dinner at Le Fréti.
- Final vin chaud at Village Gourmand.
Where to Stay
If you’re visiting Annecy as part of a Christmas market itinerary, proximity to the train station is key. Hotel Carlton offers elegant rooms with classic touches, a short walk from both the station and the Old Town. Hébé Hotel brings sleek, modern style for those who love a boutique feel, while Allobroges Park Hotel delivers comfort and location without fuss.
The beauty of staying so close? You can drop off your shopping bags, warm up with a coffee, or even take a mid-afternoon rest before heading out again for round two at the markets.
Annecy Christmas Market: Frequently Asked Questions
When is the Annecy Christmas Market?
The Annecy Christmas Market, part of the city’s Noël des Alpes festival, typically runs from late November to early January. For 2025, dates will be confirmed closer to the season, but plan for roughly November 22 to January 5.
Where is the Annecy Christmas Market located?
The market is spread across three main areas: the Old Town chalets along the canals, the Village des Alpes with its ice rink, and the Village des Artisans near the Courier shopping center. Don’t miss the Village Gourmand tent — it’s foodie heaven.
What food should I try at the Annecy Christmas Market?
Come hungry for Savoyard specialties like tartiflette, croziflette, raclette, and fondue. Pair them with a glass of vin chaud and finish with nougat, gingerbread, or Roseaux du lac chocolates.
Why is Savoyard cheese so famous?
The region’s lush Alpine pastures and centuries-old traditions create rich, flavorful cheeses like Reblochon, raclette, Tomme de Savoie, and chèvre. Many have PDO status, meaning they must be made locally using traditional methods.
Should I book my train to Annecy in advance?
Yes — especially if you’re traveling via TGV or EuroCity (EC) trains. Booking in advance can save you a significant amount, and tickets for TGV services usually go on sale about three months ahead. For up-to-date schedules and the best fares, check the SNCF website.
Do I need to book restaurants in advance?
Absolutely. Popular spots like Le Fréti can book out days ahead, especially on weekends. Reserve early if you have a must-visit in mind.
Annecy Christmas Market- Filled with Savoyard Tradition
The Annecy Christmas Market blends Savoyard tradition, festive charm, and Alpine flavors into one unforgettable winter getaway. If you love cheese, lights, and lakeside beauty, it belongs on your Christmas list. And if you’re planning more festive adventures, check out my guides to Stuttgart’s music-filled squares, Baden Baden market magic, and Asti’s slow-food paradise.
If gourmet itineraries are your thing, don’t miss my other food adventures — from the best pizza Milan and amazing risotto in Verona to authentic tuscan food in Pienza, and my food lover’s guide to Bologna.
